Winter in Melbourne: A City That Shines in the Cold
Finding the shine in Melbourne’s winter: Coffee, cakes and cosy hideaways
It’s dark when I get up at six and getting dark again by 5pm.
That seemingly endless stretch of gently sunny days is gone, replaced by drizzle and soggy autumn leaves underfoot. We’ve passed peak Autumn colour and now the trees are entering their ‘season of the sticks’. Let’s face it, winter is upon us.
And that’s just great as winter is the season when Melbourne truly shines, revealing it’s warmth, heart and cosiest hideaways. Here’s a very eclectic list of what I’m looking forward to doing over the coming months.
Let’s Explore Melbourne in Winter
1. MELBOURNE ICONS
Yes, I know, there are plenty, but here are some you may have overlooked that are well worth the visit.
Melbourne Waiters Club (or ‘the Waiter’s Club)
This place has been around forever – I recall visiting it about 40 years ago, more ‘recently’ about 15 years ago. And again last week. It hasn’t changed at all. The menus are hand written on the walls, the wine list never arrived, but the Pino Grigio still came in a modest tumbler. The food remains fabulous – two of us ordered the Veal Piazzola and it was memorable for all the right reasons. We arrived at 5.30 pm and were out by 7 to see a show – what else could you ask for?
20 Meyer Place, just off Bourke Street, CBD. There’s no website, but you can book by phone on (03) 9650 1508.
The incomparable Chloe
Painted in 1875 by French artist, Jules Lefebrve, Chloe is arguably Melbourne’s most famous work of art. Originally owned by a Lonsdale Street doctor, there was an outcry when ‘she’ was loaned to the National Gallery of Victoria, so poor naked Chloe was removed from display.
Later purchased by Henry Figsby Young, the owner of Young and Jacksons in the early 1900s, she now graces Chloe’s Bar. She’s been written to by homesick Australian troops, and survived attempted kidnappings, and a patron falling against her. With nudity no longer controversial, she’s now more often appreciated for her beauty and attitude.
Visit her in Chloe’s Bar at Young and Jacksons on the Classic Pubs & Cool Bars walking tour.
Corner Flinders and Swanston Streets, CBD
The Block Arcade
It’s a little known fact that his historic arcade was modelled on the Galleria Vittorio in Milan. This makes sense when you visit the Block – its design and elegant proportions create an unforgettable space. And the intricate terrazzo flooring is worth a visit alone.
Regular walking tours enable you to absorb the history. Or you can plan your own visit to enjoy upmarket stores, or, even better, to take tea in The Tea Rooms, the oldest in Melbourne.
282 Collins Street, CBD (Also enter by Elizabeth or Little Collins Streets)
2. ‘OFF BROADWAY’ THEATRE
fortyfivedownstairs
Established in 2002, fortyfivedownstairs is a gallery, theatre and café combined. This independent, not-for-profit space showcases small theatre productions (currently featuring Patalog’s Never Closer) and indie art exhibitions. It is a joy to attend the theatre there, arriving early and mooching around with a glass of wine, appreciating the work of the artists on display.
Keep your eye on the program – next up is Eurydice (Melbourne Shakespeare Company) and an exhibition of entries in fortyfivedownstairs’ Emerging Artist Award in late July.
45 Flinders Lane, CBD
La Mama
If you know Melbourne, then you’ll know Carlton’s La Mama, the home of independent theatre in our city. Founded in 1967 by Betty Burstall, whose idea was to create “essentially a playwright’s theatre, a place where new ideas, new ways of expression can be tried out, a place where you can hear what people are thinking and feeling.”
A fire in 2018 could have spelt the end of this iconic playhouse, but fans of La Mama raised $3 million to rebuild the hallowed theatre. Burstall’s legacy lives on today with edgy drama that tests the boundaries, challenging patrons to examine their attitudes and their lives. Here’s what’s coming up.
205 Faraday Steet, Carlton
Red Stitch
Red Stitch Actors Theatre is just that – a feisty young company which proudly showcases the talents of its team. Located opposite the Astor Cinema in St Kilda, Red Stitch continually sells out its performances (most recently the Doll Trilogy by playwright, Ray Lawler, which is now touring to Bendigo).
Red Stitch offers another great example of the ‘big little theatre’ energy which abounds in Melbourne’s art scene.
Rear of 2 Chapel Street, St Kilda East
3. LET’S BAKE A CAKE
Monarch Cakes
Monarch Cake Shop has held court in Acland Street for 80+ years, serving eastern European inspired delicacies to generations of locals – and by mail order to those further afield. The team at Monarch bakes many iconic cakes every day, but the most highly sought are the Chocolate Kooglhoupf and the Baked Polish Cheesecake made from a recipe a century old.
And then, of course, there’s the ‘diet friendly’ Plum Cake with more plums than butter.
103 Acland Street, Balaclava
Fleischer Cakes
Originally located in Chapel Street, Prahran, Fleischer Cakes relocated to Malvern more than a decade ago. A taste of Europe is a fair description. We’ve been patrons since they made our wedding cake (a sky-high Croquembouche) 43 years ago.
I can sincerely say we have never been disappointed by anything the Fleischer gang create – and our recently purchased Black Forest Cake for a family gathering in February was sublime.
96 Glenferrie Road, Malvern
Miilk Cake Studio
A new addition to the fine tradition of cakeology in my home town is Miilk, a cakelicious celebration of all things sweet. It started in 1950 in Singapore and generations of bakers later the owners pride themselves on establishing the ultimate Asian-inspired cake shop in the heart of Melbourne.
The double ‘ii’ in milk is more than a logo – it’s a peace sign to inspire patrons to celebrate their inner child and take a selfie. Instagram is calling!
166 Swanston St, CBD but also opening shortly in Werribee.
4. TIME TO GET OUT AND GET SOCIAL
You literally cannot remain still when your toes are tapping and your feet are moving to a sea shanty or an Irish ballad. Or when you’re desperately trying to remember that movie from 1972 with Jack Nicholson, as the quizmaster’s timer ticks down… Yes, our pubs are great and serve amazing food, but this is all about laughing with like-minded people by sharing a mutual activity.
Trivia night at the Prince Alfreds
Tuesday is trivia night and no cosier spot than Pas as those of us who went to Melbourne Uni know it. Beers are on tap, the food is amazing and there’s all those people you’ve yet to meet. In fact most nights of the week you can join a fun activity – check the website make your choice.
191 Grattan Street, Carlton
Talking and singing Irish at the Drunken Poet
The Drunken Poet has been voted one of the ten best Irish Pubs in the world by the Irish Times which is no mean feat. It’s cosy, authentic and live music and Guiness is on tap six nights a week. See you there.
65 Peel Street, West Melbourne
Belting out a sea shanty
Not a pub, but a very worthy charity, The Mission to Seafarers was established as a refuge for seagoers from all over the world in 1917. Today you can sing sea shanties and folk songs for free every Thursday at 7pm. Best of all it doesn’t matter if you can’t hold a note – and newcomers are very welcome.
717 Flinders Street, Docklands, info@missiontoseafarers.com.au
Read more: Sea Shanties at the Mission to Seafarers: A Thursday Night Tradition
5. COFFEE NEAR FLINDERS STREET
Assuming, like me, you visit Melbourne’s CBD by train or tram, here are my top picks for a caffeine-laden heart-starter to get your adventures underway.
Dukes Coffee Roasters
The space is tiny so it’s usually overflowing, but the coffee is amazing and the blonde timber tricks you into thinking you are in Scandinavia. Oh, and the service is friendly. You can also purchase your favourite organic blend to enjoy at home.
247 Flinders Lane, CBD
The Journal
Located inside Melbourne’s City Library, serving hearty brunch and great coffee, there’s a lot to like here – plus you can hear your companion speak. If you arrive later in the day, there are lunch rolls, pastas and freshly baked pastries.
253 Flinders Lane, CBD
Elio’s Place
Elio’s Place also serves great coffee a short walk from Flinders Street Station. It’s a European inspired bistro and bar where you can enjoy breakfast, lunch or dinner or snacks. Most importantly, the coffee is great at any hour.
1/238 Flinders Lane, CBD
I’m not sure about your plans for June, July and August, but I know I won’t be bored
Want to make the most of winter in Melbourne?
Here are some of our most popular guides to help you enjoy it all:
- Melbourne Lunch Specials – Warm up with hearty, affordable meals across the city
- What’s On in Melbourne This Week – Stay up to date with free events, exhibitions and pop-ups
- Melbourne Concerts and Melbourne Musicals – From midweek matinees to blockbuster shows
- Dinner and Show Ideas – Explore Melbourne hotel experiences
- Shopping in Melbourne – Discover cosy boutiques, winter sales and local gems
Heading off on your own Melbourne adventures? Join our Facebook Group and share your stories, ask questions and connect with others for further inspiration.
