Top Wineries in the Grampians
Driving to the Grampians (Gariwerd), we pass bright-yellow canola fields, framed by silver-grey skies, and purple, craggy mountains. Our arrival in Halls Gap, by comparison, feels enclosed by the giant rock faces lining our way. Their 400 million year history remind us of humankind’s fleeting existence. “Embrace life!” they demand —a directive we gladly follow by touring the Grampians’ Wine Region.
The Charms of the Grampians Wine Region
Melburnians commonly tour the Yarra Valley or Mornington Peninsula, but the Grampians Wine Region is a historic, prestigious and award-winning alternative, known for cool-climate Shiraz, sparkling wines, and crisp Rieslings. Visiting not only supports local businesses but also contributes to the region’s inspiring recovery from the 2024/25 bushfires.
We visit with the Wine Guild Victoria. I joined this group in my 60s for the social and travel opportunities, but have since found myself drawn like a cork from a bottle into the world of wine.
DAY ONE of Our Grampians Winery Itinerary
Best’s Great Western
The Grampians’ winemaking history dates from the 1860s. Henry Best purchased 73 acres in the small town of Great Western in 1866. The Thompson family took over in 1920.
Visiting Best’s is an immersion in history. Tastings are in the 1870s stables, and visitors can tour the 1860s cellars.
Ben Thompson is the fifth generation of Thompsons at the helm. His father, Viv, came here as a six-year-old when his grandfather took over. Viv introduced us to the family winery. Now in his 80s, he’s the family patriarch but also a doyen in the industry. The Melbourne Food & Wine Festival dubbed him a legend, and he received an OAM in 2014 for his services to the industry.
His encyclopedic knowledge of wine astounds us. In touching on the 1970s and easy-drinking sweet wines like Ben Ean Moselle, some of us smile in recognition. “It’s a pity”, he says, “today’s young people don’t have such an easy entry point into the world of wine.”
We learn the Grampians Wine Region boasts some of Australia’s—and possibly the world’s—oldest vines. Cuttings imported from Europe predated the 1860s Phylloxera outbreak, which ravaged European vineyards and, by 1902, after arriving in Geelong, many in Victoria. Being more isolated, the Grampians vineyards were spared.
Best’s boasts some of the world’s oldest Dolcetto, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier, and Shiraz vines. Vignerons venerate old vines. They yield less, but their fruit is intensely concentrated.
Best’s award-winning wines include 2021 Foudre Ferment Riesling (Halliday Wine of the Year 2023), 2014 Thomson Family Shiraz (Halliday Wine of the Year 2017), and Bin No. 1 Shiraz (Jimmy Watson Trophy winner).
Best’s Cellar Door is open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun & Public Holidays 11am-4pm. Tastings available Mon-Sat 10am-4:15pm, Sun & Public Holidays 11am-3:15pm.
Seppelt Great Western
Seppelt, despite its industrial-sized tanks, shares in the local history. Joseph Best, Henry’s brother, founded Great Western Winery in 1865, commissioning gold miners to dig underground tunnels, or ‘Drives’.
Hans Irvine purchased the estate in 1887. He worked with Charles Pierlot in 1890 to produce Australia’s first Méthode Champenoise sparkling burgundy. After winning an award in Bordeaux in 1895, Great Western was on the global wine map.
The winery has changed hands multiple times. Treasury Wine Estates (TWE) acquired the Seppelt brand in May 2011 (a spin-off from the Fosters Group). Their 2015 announcement to close Seppelt’s cellar door had a significant impact on the community, resulting in job losses and the loss of local history.
Danial Ahchow and his father, Bruce, who owns the nearby Great Western Garage, formed Great Western Enterprises, signing an agreement with Treasury Wine Estates to keep tourism alive.
Meaning the tasting and tours of the Drives continue.
We took one of these amazing tours. While a couple of us locked eyes in horror at the thought of venturing underground, the slope down was gradual, and the tunnels reasonably spacious.
The 3km of tunnels are coated in harmless black mould, originating from spores embedded in early French Oak wine barrels, lending to the sense of age and tradition.
The tour takes in a portion of the network but includes the Brandy Nook, where Dame Nellie Melba bathed in 152 bottles of champagne! Book the nook for a rustic, candlelit banquet of sumptuous food paired with wines. Stay in the grounds in historic accommodation. Funds from Great Western Enterprises support local development.
Seppelt Drives and Café open daily from 10 am – 3 pm. Underground Cellar Tours available from 11 am – 3 pm; bookings recommended. Call 03 53612239 or email info@seppeltgreatwestern.com.au.
Grampians Estate
Only three minutes away, Grampians Estate is history in the making. Originally planted in 1989, Tom and Sarah Guthrie took over in 2004, and the winery emerged as one of the region’s premier boutique wineries.
Tom Guthrie is a charismatic presenter. He tells us of his journey from sheep farmer to winemaker. Busy on the land, he took seven years to complete his wine science degree. “I was the only student with a seniors card and a student card,” he laughs.
The Grampians Estate label showcases Arthur Streeton’s ‘Land of the Golden Fleece’, depicting the Grampians Major Mitchell’s Plateau foregrounded by grazing sheep—a fitting image for the couple’s journey.
The Guthries’ 5-star winery is rated by James Halliday (top 8% in Australia) and has won 78 trophies since 2002. Their cool-climate peppery Streeton Reserve Shiraz is a popular purchase.
Grampians Estate open daily Thursday – Sunday 12-6pm
Wednesday: BY APPOINTMENT
Monday – Tuesday: CLOSED from 10 am. On-site cafe.
Dinner in Hall’s Gap
Staying in Hall’s Gap (population 495), we enjoy walkable dining. The Kookaburra Hotel offers innovative local dishes, from pub fare to duckling risotto and marinated tofu. We finish with hot chocolates around the fire pits, a few doors down at Raccolto Pizzeria, another surprising find.
DAY TWO of Our Grampians Winery Itinerary
Fallen Giants Vineyard
Fallen Giants is 7 minutes out of Hall’s Gap on the way to Pomonal, a village on the eastern slopes of the Mount William Range. Originally planted in ’69, siblings Aaron and Rebecca Drummond purchased the property in 2013.
Rebecca is at home on a tractor and loves to work the soil. She describes herself as a grape farmer deeply influenced by her travels to France.
She started farming organically a few years back, and her philosophy centres on allowing the unique site characteristics to shine through.
We could have listened to Rebecca all day with her passion for viticulture and the environment, and her love for the beauty, peace and even challenges of the Grampian wine region.
In 2021, Fallen Giants won the prestigious Jimmy Watson Memorial Trophy for its 2019 Shiraz.
Fallen Giants. Open Wed to Sun, call or email cellar door for bookings: (03) 5356 4252 cellardoor@fallengiants.com.au
Pomonal Estate
Three minutes away is Pomonal Estate (est. 2017). We arrive at a joyful scene of families stretching out on lawns listening to live music, and couples clinking glasses in the cafe. Although new, Pomonal Estate is already enshrined in local culture. It was built by locals, with hardwood feature walls and Redgum posts sourced from Pomonal, and the Seppelt Great Western train station (1876).
The owners are Adam and Pep Atchison. Pep explains the couple’s journey, detailing her 25-year career in the wine industry, which included 12 happy years at Seppelt before TWE’s takeover.
Unsurprisingly, 2014 became the couple’s pivotal year for reinvention. Adam began brewing beer, and in 2017, they planted their 3-acre vineyard (Shiraz – 2 acres & Riesling – 1 acre) along with their Cider Orchard.
Pep showcased their wines and beers at the Pomonal Market, fostering strong connections with other local producers.
Pomanal Estate’s use of local produce and their talented chef made our lunch the culinary highlight of our trip.
Already a winery, microbrewery, and cider house, the couple recently expanded to include six luxury villas with picture-perfect views. One is fully accessible.
Their business acumen has resulted in multiple awards, including Business of the Year awards for 2019, 2021, and 2022, a Sustainability Award in 2021, and Gourmet Wine Traveller’s Best Cellar Door with Food for 2021 and 2022.
Pomonal Estate Wednesday – Sunday 10am to 5 pm serving lunch from 11am to 4 pm
Black and Ginger Wines
We began at the historical Best’s and conclude at the contemporary Black and Ginger, a youthful winery distinguished by its striking black and orange decor. The name references owners Hadyn Black and Darcy ‘Ginger’ Naunton, passionate advocates of small-batch alternative varietal wines. Their philosophy is simple: “make delicious wines to drink with mates”.
Our only chance to taste a 2024 Missy Piggy Orange Muscat & Riesling and a 2022 Cinco Rojas Iberian Wine Red Blend.
Tastings are paired with music—the “Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds” and Zeppelin’s “Whole Lotta Love” variety.
To top off the adventure, the back door opens onto an old shearing shed converted into Barney’s Bar & Bistro, serving generous meals in a youthful, inclusive, upbeat atmosphere.
Black and Ginger Open Thursday – Sunday 12-6 pm
Heading off on your own Melbourne adventures? Join our Facebook Group and share your stories, ask questions and connect with others for further inspiration.
