Taste & Temptation at The Johnston Collection: A Delicious Look at 18th-Century Dining
What did luxury taste like in the 1700s? At Taste & Temptation, the newest exhibition at The Johnston Collection, the answer comes in the form of elaborate dessert tables, glittering silver, rich hot chocolate, political gossip over coffee — and dazzling jelly moulds that once symbolised wealth and status.
Running until 27 September 2026, this immersive exhibition transforms the historic East Melbourne townhouse Fairhall into a theatrical journey through the dining and drinking rituals of eighteenth-century Europe. Absolutely delightful.
Our visit begins the way every tour here does: gathered in the drawing room with a cup of tea served on Wedgwood china, while our volunteer guide, Mary, gives us a warm introduction to the house and the man behind it.
The Johnston Collection: A feast for the eyes — and the imagination
In the eighteenth century, food and drink were about far more than satisfying hunger. Dining tables became places to display refinement, social standing and even political loyalties.
Taste and Temptation is an opportunity to delve into this fascinating side of history, guest curated by Dr Matthew Martin, a specialist in European luxury arts of the 1600s–1800s and a former curator at the National Gallery of Victoria.
The man behind the collection
William Johnston was a Melbourne antiques dealer and property investor who bought houses and rented them out to build a steady income, which in turn funded his real passion: collecting. Born in 1911, he died in 1986, having spent decades assembling more than 1,500 pieces of English Georgian, Regency and European decorative art, now considered one of the finest collections of its type in Australasia.
When he died, Johnston left the entire collection to the people of Victoria, along with some specific wishes about how it should be experienced. He didn’t want a roped-off museum feel. There’s no barrier between visitor and object here, which is part of what makes a visit feel so personal — though it does mean the golden rule of any Johnston Collection tour is simple: look, don’t touch.
If walking or standing for the full visit feels daunting, Mary mentioned something we thought was worth passing on: just let your guide know, and they’ll happily bring you a chair.
Around 75 per cent of the collection’s records can also be browsed on The Johnston Collection’s website, which is a lovely way to revisit pieces that caught your eye, or do some homework before you go.
Walking through an 18th-century home
Each room of Fairhall has been carefully reimagined to evoke a different aspect of Georgian and Regency life. Visitors can wander through:
- a lavish baroque dining room filled with silverware
- an elegant morning room devoted to dressing rituals and hot chocolate
- a stylish European coffee gathering space where women met to drink coffee and exchange ideas
- a decadent dessert setting
- spaces reflecting political intrigue and fashionable entertaining
The result feels like stepping inside a living period drama.
One of the loveliest small details Mary points out is a snuff box, used as the starting point for a story about how taking tea was about much more than drinking it. The lady of the house would often make the tea herself, in the room, as a deliberate part of entertaining her guests — a small performance of hospitality. She also shows us a cup with two handles, which signals that it was for chocolate rather than tea, and talks us through the more restrained, understated style of Georgian design compared with the showier Regency pieces that came later.
The room of secrets
The mood shifts in one room, which is kept dark and lit only by Mary’s torch as she moves between objects. This is where the exhibition turns to political secrecy: a punch bowl, lemon and cinnamon on display, and the quiet loyalties people kept hidden depending on which side of the era’s political divides they supported. A blunderbuss and a tankard used for drinking are part of the story, too.
It’s a striking contrast to the bright, decorative rooms, and a reminder that entertaining in this period wasn’t always as genteel as the china suggests.
The extraordinary art of the jelly mould
One of the highlights of Taste & Temptation is its fascinating exploration of historical jellies and dessert culture.
Long before supermarket gelatine existed, creating elaborate jellies required hours of labour, specialist moulds and considerable expense. Their shimmering, jewel-like appearance made them a spectacular centrepiece for wealthy households.
The exhibition features an impressive array of historical jelly moulds from the collection of Diana Morgan AM, alongside contemporary silicon jelly artworks created by artist Kate Rohde. The contrast between historic craftsmanship and modern artistic interpretation adds another layer of fun and curiosity to the experience.
A personal touch: Johnston’s own teacup
One of the most charming stories Mary shares is about Johnston himself. As a child, he was given a small Minton teacup by a family member, and that single gift sparked a lifelong passion for collecting that eventually grew into the 1,500-piece collection on display today. As an only child, he was encouraged by his family to pursue his interests, and it’s easy to see, walking through Fairhall, just how far that early encouragement took him.
Kathy’s review
On arrival we are greeted by our volunteer guide, Julie, who invites us into the drawing room for some light refreshments and a brief explanation of our visit.
The fascinating story of Johnston, the antiques dealer, evolves room by room. Visitors are escorted through the home as would a guest but taking great care not to succumb to any temptation to touch the exhibits. Julie’s depth of knowledge and ability to make seemingly small, simple details come alive is truly impressive.
However, all too soon it is time to depart. A last minute visit to the gift shop is too enticing as the quality of the gifts is always very good.
No doubt many Seniors In Melbourne subscribers would enjoy this outing but keep in mind the following few tips:
- It is best to arrive by train or tram as parking in the area is difficult to find. Hence the mini-bus.
- The parking meter system has recently been up-graded. Read the signs carefully.
- There are some stairs to negotiate. And no lift.
- There are also talks and other events on their calendar which can be accessed on their website.
- Several times I have gifted a visit to TJC as a birthday or Christmas gift, especially to those who it might be difficult to buy for.
- Lastly, my friend and I came prepared to enjoy our packed lunch afterwards in the magnificent Fitzroy Gardens, just a few minutes walk down the street.
A visit to The Johnston Collection is a treat that keeps on giving.
Need to know before you go
This is a pre-booked experience
All visits to The Johnston Collection must be booked in advance. This applies to individuals, couples and groups.
You don’t go straight to the house
Because The Johnston Collection is located in a residential area, the address is not made public. Instead, visitors meet at Pullman Melbourne on the Park, 192 Wellington Parade, East Melbourne, around 10 minutes before their scheduled tour or event.
From there, friendly Visitor Services staff escort you on a short (less than five minutes) ride in the courtesy bus to Fairhall.
Small groups, unhurried pace
Tours are deliberately kept intimate, with no more than eight visitors per guide, making it easy to hear, ask questions and enjoy the experience without feeling rushed.
Allow around 1.5 hours
A guided house museum tour takes up to 90 minutes, including time to enjoy tea or Market Lane coffee served in Wedgwood fine bone china, and a browse in the TJC Emporium for books, gifts and homewares.
Getting back is easy
At the end of your visit, you can either:
- Return to the Pullman Melbourne on the Park via the courtesy bus, or
- Depart directly from The Johnston Collection.
Opening days and times
Tours run Wednesday to Sunday at 10am, 12pm, and 2pm. The Collection is closed on public holidays.
Tickets and pricing
Taste and Temptations runs until 27 September 2026, with all visits pre-booked and carefully timed to keep groups small and the experience relaxed.
Every ticket includes:
- A welcoming introduction by a knowledgeable Volunteer Guide
- An intimate guided tour, with no more than eight visitors per guide
- Tea or Market Lane coffee, served in Wedgwood fine bone china
- Time to browse the TJC Emporium, featuring exclusive gifts, books and homewares
Ticket prices
- Adult: $35
- Concession (including Seniors Card holders): $30
- Friends of The Johnston Collection: $25
- Students (secondary/tertiary): $20
- Children (8–12 years): $15
- Groups of 8 or more: $25 per person
Gift certificates are also available and make a thoughtful present, particularly for anyone who enjoys history, decorative arts and a truly civilised afternoon out.
Comfortable shoes are important
Fairhall is a historic home with stairs, steps and some uneven surfaces. Supportive, comfortable footwear is strongly recommended.
Photography is allowed (with limits)
You’re welcome to take photos on your phone for personal use. Flash photography, tripods, selfie sticks and video recording are not permitted.
Age policy
Children must be 8 years and over, have their own booking, and be supervised by an adult at all times.
Public transport encouraged
Visitors are encouraged to arrive at the Pullman Melbourne on the Park via public transport, which is well serviced by trams and nearby train stations.
Friends of TJC
If you visit often, it’s worth looking into becoming a Friend of The Johnston Collection. Membership brings discounted tickets ($25 instead of $35) and other benefits, and helps support the organisation’s work.
Accessibility at Fairhall
The Johnston Collection is housed in Fairhall, a historic 1860s townhouse, and its heritage layout does place some limits on access.
There is no lift in the house museum. Access to the second floor requires climbing a steep staircase, with 21 steps to the first landing, followed by a further 8 steps to reach the upper level. Visitors who are unable to manage stairs should be aware that parts of the exhibition are located upstairs.
An accessible, gender-neutral bathroom is available on the ground floor of the administration building, adjacent to the house museum.
If you have any medical, mobility or access needs that require special consideration, it’s strongly recommended that you contact The Johnston Collection before booking. The team is helpful and happy to discuss options.
Phone: +61 3 9416 2515
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The Seniors in Melbourne team visited as guests of The Johnston Collection. All opinions are the writers’ own.
