Finding Italy in Melbourne: Lygon Street and beyond
La bella vita Italiana – the good life in Italy – is highly prized around the globe. But few regions are more closely twinned with Italian food and culture the way Melbourne is.
This is partly due to the strong post-WWII immigration of southern Europeans in the 1950s and 60s. But it’s strengthened by a similar sensibility, driven by a love of food, style and authentic hospitality.
As a proud Melburnian, I have strong memories of the flowering of Italian culture in my hometown, led by eponymous establishments such as Donnini’s, Pellegrino’s, Florentino and Brunetti.
Since childhood I have witnessed the way that Lygon Street has become synonymous with Italian culture as the café owners and their staff taught Australians how to appreciate pasta, and why coffee was a far better option than tea for a morning ‘kick-start’.
Italy in Modern Melbourne
Fast forward 60 or so years and Australia is now even more multicultural, with food and cultural activities from all continents tempting our palates and attention. But somehow a part of Melbourne remains devoutly Italian with locals continuing to celebrate the many manifestations of la bella vita.
Recently I went on an expedition to ‘find’ Italy in Melbourne – here’s my very quixotic list of fun things I experienced. I owe a debt of gratitude to my daughter Lucy who joined me and suggested we start, not in Lygon Street, but in Sydney Road, Brunswick.
Mediterranean Wholesalers
Described as Australia’s largest continental food store, it started life as a small deli run by Guiseppe and Carmela Madafferi in 1961. It’s now a multi-store mega-market right next door to another iconic Italian retail outlet, Franco Cozzo’s furniture store.
You’ll need an hour or more to navigate the wares at the Mediterranean Wholesalers, with pastas, meats, cheeses, olives, condiments, cakes and an inhouse coffee shop where we enjoyed biscotti and cappuccino. Wine and liqueurs are also on offer, as are terracotta cooking dishes and other Italian kitchenware. Oh, and let’s not forget the Baci …
Mediterranean Wholesalers, 482 Sydney Road, Brunswick
Princes Park and Carlton Football Club
On our way to Lygon Street, we drive past the famous Princes Park sporting precinct, home to the Carlton Football Club, an AFL team with strong Italian heritage. Not my team, but I pay homage to the devotion of their supporters, regardless.
Museo Italiano Cultural Centre
The museum was founded in 1980 to document, preserve and promote the history of Italian migration and settlement in Australia. It now includes a permanent exhibition, a collection of documents, artifacts and research materials and is a hub of interesting cultural events for those with an interest in Italian culture and language.
Museo Italiano Cultural Centre, 199 Faraday Street, Carlton
Lygon Street: Italian Icons
On the next corner is Lygon Street, where we start by heading south on the eastern side of the road, passing the crowds gathered both outside and inside at Brunetti Classico on the ground level of Lygon Court, which also houses the Cinema Nova.
The Brunetti name is synonymous with cakes. Back in the day, there was one outlet; now there are many, with the brand divided into two different businesses, Brunetti Classico and Brunetti Oro.
D.O.C Osteria
Next we visit the D.O.C complex which offers deli goods, a bar and restaurant, with the original D.O.C Pizza restaurant back around the corner in Drummond Street. Although now taken for granted, Lygon Street was one of the first streets in Australia to adopt the outdoor dining still evident up and down this famous strip.
D.O.C Osteria, 326 Lygon Street, Carlton
Donnini’s
Just past D.O.C is Donnini’s, owned by the neighbourhood’s Italian ‘royalty’ who have been serving locals for more than 60 years. Fernando and Elena Donnini first established the University Cafe (directly across the road) in 1952. Their son, Tiberio, went on to open Donnini’s on Drummond Street in the late 70s. Soon Donnini’s opened restaurants and fresh pasta outlets across Melbourne – as well as in Cairns. In 2002 the main restaurant moved back to Lygon Street, directly opposite where it all began. We stop for lunch and enjoy a pasta trio (gnocchi, tortelli and tagliatelle – delicious!) and freshly grilled calamari – heavenly!
Donnini’s, 320 Lygon Street, Carlton
After crossing Lygon at Grattan Street we note the shuttered windows of King and Godfree, another well-known local deli first opened more than a century ago. It’s currently undergoing renovations but rumoured to be reopening later this year.
University Café
The University Café (or Universita Bar Ristorante to use its correct name, influenced by the proximity of Melbourne University) has a strong history. Opened in 1962 by the previously mentioned Donnini family, back in the day this was where university professors used to go post-lecture to enjoy an espresso and to discuss the finer points of history, philosophy or literature. The café now serves breakfast, brunch, lunch and dinner so the crowd can vary according to the time of day. But the coffee is consistently good, as is the service.
University Café, 257 Lygon Street, Carlton
Other Italian points of interest on this western side of Lygon include Tiamo’s restaurant and the Caffe Il Quartiere situated in the Industrial Machines shop on the western corner of Faraday and Lygon Streets.
Detour to Victoria Market
Heading south from Lygon towards the Melbourne CBD, you might choose to take a detour via Victoria Market to visit Romape’ Cibo da Strada, a tiny hole in the wall (L Shed Stall W 36) where hot coffee and Italian dolci are served daily.
Immigration Museum
From the market, it’s a 20-minute walk down William Street to Melbourne’s Immigration Museum. Alternatively you might walk back to Elizabeth Street and tram down to Flinders, then turn right to reach the corner of Flinders and Williams Streets, where the museum is located.
This fascinating museum offers free entry for pension card holders (and discounts for seniors) and a first class overview of the ‘Italian story’, from early days of immigration to contemporary Melbourne.
The Trio of Italian Eateries
After this, we head to the iconic ‘trio’ of Italian eateries at the eastern end of town, near the top of Bourke Street. These three well-known establishments are very different but all revered in their own way by locals who appreciate the way these cafes and restaurants have showcased consistently fine Italian hospitality over the decades. You may have already guessed, but here are our top three:
Pellegrini’s Espresso Bar
First opened in 1954 by Leo and Vildo Pellegrini, brothers who had worked at nearby Florentino. Pellegrini’s bar and cafe has the proud boast of installing the first espresso machine in Melbourne. The café was bought by Nino Pangrazio and Sisto Malaspina in 1974 who operated the café together until 2018 when Sisto was tragically killed in a knife attack. He is honoured by a plaque outside the restaurant, with the words, ‘Sisto loved Melbourne – and Melbourne loved him back.’ This classic café continues under the ownership of Sisto’s son and wife.
Pellegrini’s Espresso Bar, 66 Bourke Street, Melbourne
Florentino
Café Florentino (now Grossi Florentino) is Melbourne’s oldest restaurant. Initially a French restaurant, Massoni, a new owner in the 1930s changed the cuisine to Italian, as well as the décor, installing murals celebrating Tuscan life. Offering the finest of fine dining, Grossi Florentino is expensive, but those who eat here claim it is worth every penny.
Florentino, 80 Bourke Street, Melbourne
The Waiters Restaurant
Long described as the restaurant where Melbourne chefs and hospitality staff go to relax, this no-fuss upstairs bar and diner has basic tables and chairs and a simple but delicious choice of Italian staples. Expect simple fare, affordable prices, and very drinkable house wine served in tumblers.
The Waiters Restaurant (Originally called the Italian Waiter’s Club), 20 Meyers Place, Melbourne
Further Afield
Bruno&Co Café
Owner Vito Bruno first came to Melbourne from Puglia in 2007. He worked at the Pantry in Brighton for almost a decade, then opened Bruno&Co in 2017, followed by an offshoot in Cremorne, Little B in 2024. Bruno’s team is Italian, the menu is Italian and the coffee is excellent.
Bruno&Co Café, 1007 High Street, Armadale
Learn Italian
Italian language classes can be found in most suburbs of Melbourne and will certainly intensify your experience should you choose to travel or embrace the local Italian scene.
Italian Design at Heide
Heide Museum of Modern Art is currently featuring a Molto Bello exhibition celebrating ‘icons of Italian modern design’ until 23 March 2025.
Heide Museum of Modern Art, 7 Templestowe Rd, Bulleen
I hope this post has inspired you to get out and explore Melbourne! Subscribe to our free weekly newsletter to find out more ways to discover (or rediscover) the joy of exploring Melbourne.
